MSPCA-Angell Dog Training Series: Collars and Leashes

In part four of the MSPCA-Angell Dog Training Series, Terri Bright, Ph.D., BCBA-D, CAAB, Director of Behavior Services, breaks down the dos and don’ts of dog-walking and training gear. From collars and leashes to harnesses and muzzles, she explains what works best and what to skip. For additional insight from Dr. Bright, follow her on Facebook at Dr. Bright’s Behavior and Training at MSPCA-Angell.

Choosing the Proper Equipment for Your Dog

Ribbon models leashes, collars, and harnesses that Dr. Bright has used over the years. Needless to say, she’s a very patient pup!

The American Pet Products Association reported that Americans spent $157 billion on pet care in 2024. For many families, shopping for pets is a necessity; however, when it comes to dogs, choosing the right equipment is just as much about practicality as it is about safety.

Terri Bright, Ph.D., BCBA-D, CAAB, Director of Behavior Services at the MSPCA-Angell, has tested countless types of equipment over the years. “My own dog, Ribbon, has modeled nearly every tool I’ve tried in the course of my work,” she explained. “But in truth, all we really need to walk a dog is a leash and a collar — or at least, that’s the starting point.”

Collars

Ribbon is the best Martingale collar model!

According to Dr. Bright, the most ideal collar is a Martingale collar. “This is a slip-on collar where the leash clip is on a loop that tightens if the dog pulls, making it impossible — if fitted properly — for the collar to slip off the dog’s head,” she said.

She noted that standard buckle collars and those with plastic clasps are also commonly used. “The trick is making sure the collar won’t slip off if a fearful dog suddenly backs up,” she said. “Always adjust it right behind the dog’s ears so that two fingers can fit underneath. And keep an eye on puppy collars — they can quickly become too tight as your dog grows.”

Not recommended

Prong collars: Dr. Bright shared that decades ago, a trainer recommended one for her bull terrier puppy. “When I popped the collar because she pulled, she looked scared. Then at the park, I popped it and — sproing!— it came apart, and off she went. I left that collar behind for good. That was when I started learning about positive reinforcement,” she said. (That same puppy went on to become the top Agility bull terrier in the U.S. in 2007.)

Prong collars are not recommended.

Dr. Bright cautions that in her clinic, she often sees dogs whose excitement about other dogs turned into barking and lunging after repeated prong corrections. “When you yank a collar correctively, you’re teaching the dog that whatever they’re looking at caused the pain. That can create or worsen reactivity and aggression,” she said. Prong collars can also cause dangerous fights if two dogs get tangled while playing.

E-collars: Like prongs, e-collars apply an aversive stimulus tied to unwanted behavior. “We see similar side effects with e-collars, where dogs start associating people or other dogs with the correction,” Dr. Bright explained. “Because of the risk of these side effects, academically trained behaviorists don’t recommend them.” Even the vibration setting can be frightening to dogs, she added. More rarely, Dr. Bright has seen cases of fistulas, which are wounds on the dog’s neck caused by collar prongs.

Leashes

A standard leash is six feet long. “You can always shorten it with your hands if needed, and then let it out when your dog sniffs, which they absolutely should do for part of their walk,” said Dr. Bright. “Dogs have 200 million odor receptors, so their ideal walk is really a long sniff.”

Not recommended

Flexi leashes are not recommended.

Flexi-leads: “These teach your dog to pull until you hit the brake, and if the brake isn’t on, your dog can be 20 feet away — in the road — in an instant,” Dr. Bright said. Flexi-leads can also break, and the manufacturer warns of possible injuries if the cord wraps around an extremity. “If you want your dog to run on a leash, a really long leash is a much safer alternative,” she added.

Pulling

One of the most common questions Dr. Bright hears is: “But my dog pulls! What equipment should I use?”

“The truth is, a dog can learn to pull on any piece of equipment if it moves them forward,” she explained. “The answer isn’t new equipment — it’s training. Dogs can absolutely be taught not to pull.”

Dr. Bright recommends rewards-based obedience classes and plenty of high-value treats. “Carry yummy treats with you, and reward your dog every step or two they take at your side. Start indoors, then move to your yard, and finally, to familiar walking routes. As you gradually add new environments, increase how often you reward to make it easier for them,” she said.

Harnesses

Some dogs pull less when first switched to a harness, though Dr. Bright notes this is often just because it’s new. “No matter what equipment you use, you still need to train your dog using frequent rewards,” she explained.

Types include

Front-hook harnesses: Popular with many owners, but Dr. Bright cautions about fit. “If it slips below the shoulders, or if the dog pulls with great force, there could be a risk of shoulder injury,” she said. She added that you should check with your vet if you suspect this with your dog.

Rear-hook harnesses: Not recommended. “Think of sled dogs in the Iditarod — rear-hook harnesses give a dog more pulling power,” warned Dr. Bright.

Front/rear-hook combined: A double-clip leash can help decrease pulling while you train.

Head Harnesses

Different styles fit differently, including the Gentle Leader, Halti, and Snoot Loop. “My favorite is the Snoot Loop,” Dr. Bright said. “But most dogs find head harnesses difficult to tolerate.”

She advised introducing them very slowly with plenty of treats. “If your dog lunges hard enough that their head twists sideways, a head harness is probably not a good choice,” she added.

Muzzles

Dr. Bright stresses that every dog should be trained to wear a muzzle. “There could come a time when it’s needed, and if it’s already associated with treats, that’s ideal,” she explained.

Ribbon shows off her “customized” muzzle, thanks to a red zip-tie for a better fit.

Types include:

Sleeve muzzles: Used briefly during veterinary appointments, but unsafe for long wear since dogs cannot easily pant, eat, or drink.

Basket muzzles: Allow dogs to pant, eat, and drink if properly fitted. There are various types, and like a head harness, the fit will depend on the shape of your dog’s head. “The shorter the nose, the harder it is to fit, but custom muzzles are available,” Dr. Bright said. In a pinch, you can also create your own workaround for a more “customized” muzzle, as pictured on Ribbon, above.

When training, Dr.Bright recommends taking “baby steps.” Start by using the basket like a treat bowl until the dog eagerly places their nose inside. Then gradually progress to clipping the collar and rewarding after each step. “Don’t just throw it on,” she warned. “That will only teach them to avoid it.”